ABSEILING

For those who want a bit of adventure and adrenalin with their waterfall, The Edge Abseil Adventures is a professional and friendly operation also based Port Vila that provides waterfall abseiling trips to the Cascades. They also have a Siviri Adventure which includes a tour to North Efate, abseiling, abseiling into a cave for lunch, feeding coconuts to pigs, kayaking in a cave and kayaking and snorkelling on the reef. Email info@GoVanuatu.com or phone 27834 or 47197.

ACCOMMODATION

In Vanuatu you will find accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets from backpacker style to quality resorts. It is wise (and usually much better value) to book accommodation before arriving in Vanuatu as part of an overall package, especially for travellers from Australia and New Zealand. The main resorts are on the island of Efate and are handy to Port Vila. Many of the outer islands also offer accommodation and, generally speaking, it will be comfortable and clean but fairly basic – but that’s what outer island eco-tourism is all about! Here’s a thumbnail guide to accommodation in and around Port Vila (also see listings for individual properties):

• Le Lagon: A quality family/couple resort on Erakor Lagoon with bungalow style rooms, restaurant, snack bar, pools (new one with swim-up bar), watersports, golf, tennis, activities and a Kids Club. The Resort offers an all-inclusive food and beverage package but this is only recommended if you enjoy a drink and don’t plan on getting outside the resort much. For lovers of cocktails in all resorts, look for Happy Hour as they are cool, colourful but can be very expensive. The Wild Ginger restaurant offers Asian Fusion.

• Le Meridien: Also a quality family/couple resort. Mostly motel style accommodation apart from the exclusive 'Lagoon Villas’. There are 2 pools (one with poolside bar and snacks), restaurant, golf course, tennis, watersports, Kids Club and Palms Casino. Undergoing refurbishment late 2007.

• Iririki Island Resort: Another quality resort located in Port Vila harbour. One part of the resort is aimed at couples rather than families (no guests under 12). It has bungalow accommodation, swimming pool, Spa Frangipani health centre, watersports and Michener’s Restaurant. There are three other dining and bar options. The new family resort, Snorkellers Cove, on the other side of the island opened in 2006. There are 62 Deluxe Rooms and Penthouses with spas on the balconies and facilities include a gymnasium, tennis courts and huge pool with swim-up bar. There is a free ferry (3 minutes across the harbour) 24 hours to Vila.

• Chantilly’s on the Bay: Stylish but casual hotel style accommodation, in a delightful harbour setting a few minutes walk from Vila town. There is a kitchenette in the studio and one-bedroom apartments and all have balconies facing the harbour (and sunset). The restaurant, Tilly's, has a bar and an innovative menu that pleases locals and guests. With new owners med-2007 some radical refurbishment is taking place.

• Erakor Island Resort: This resort is five minutes by bus/car from Port Vila and another 5 minutes on the free 24-hour ferry. There are 22 bungalows, restaurant, bar and watersports hut. While the resort welcomes families, there are only 4 family bungalows (loft style, so not suitable for toddlers with the stairs) and the ambience is more for couples, especially with new spa bungalows. There is a beach for children, but no pool. Roxy’s on the Lagoon restaurant has a delightful lagoon setting.

• Mangoes: This is strictly Adults Only bungalow style accommodation (not kinky, just no kids!). Boutique style with bungalows looking down to the lagoon (there’s a path leading down) with an excellent restaurant, 2 swimming pools and a fifteen-minute walk from town.

• Poppys On The Lagoon: Self contained, very comfortable, up market 1, 2 and 3 bedroom townhouse style accommodation on the lagoon (plus studio apartments). There’s an adults only pool as well as family pool, a good snack bar and convenience store.

• Hideaway Island Resort: Accommodation is comfortable, but it’s 15 minutes out of town and five minutes on the ferry. It is, however, perfect for those who want to get away from it all - snorkelling in the Marine Sanctuary is very good and there is a resident dive operation. There is a bar and new restaurant/snack bar that unfortunately doesn’t serve fries (chips) for the children. A day trip for snorkelling is rewarding and it is home to the world’s only underwater post office.

• The Melanesian: Just a walk up the hill from the town centre, this is ideal for people on business or wanting to be close to town and budget family holidays. The motel style rooms are well-appointed (some are self-contained), there’s a pool (recently re-tiled), pool bar and nightly entertainment, the Sunset Bar, Club 21 (gaming machines) and Thai restaurant.

• Tamanu On The Beach: 20 minutes from Vila this resort is in a lovely beach setting with five quality bungalows and a fine restaurant. A night or two will certainly hit the unwind button. Perfect for a leisurely lunch but be sure to book on weekends.

• Benjor Beach Club: This resort is about 20 minutes the other side of Vila at Devil’s Point. The Officer’s Club restaurant gets good feedback and there are duplex villas, some with spa and there’s one Honeymoon Retreat with hot tub. There are also 2 large 5 bedroom villas with staff for short-term and long-term rental that may suit large families or two groups travelling together.

• Breaka's Beach Resort: A boutique resort less than 10 minutes from Vila on its own beach. The bungalows are spacious and romantic, the ‘infinity’ pool with swim-up bar is terrific and it's ‘adult themed’ (no children under 15). There’s a poolside bar and restaurant and there will soon be terrific family villas on offer.

• Paradise Cove Resort: One and two bedroom bungalows with kitchenettes, Paradise Cove appeals to both families and couples. There’s a small harbour beach, a pool and an excellent Italian restaurant. There are also two resident, friendly lumbering dogs. About 20 minutes from town it is another great place to simply explore a book or six in a hammock.

• Fatumaru Lodge: These eight comfortable studio apartments are right on the water (and recently two seaview apartments have been added). It’s a walk from town, apartments are air-conditioned and self-contained and there’s a pool with Jacuzzi and poolside BBQ. They represent excellent value and apartments have adjoining doors for families or couples travelling together.

• Sunset Bungalows: Sunset Bungalows overlooks No 2 Lagoon and it is a boutique ‘Adults Only’ resort (no guests under 18). The atmosphere is Balinese in the furnishings and the restaurant (Bungalow:Ate) is very good. As well as the Superior Bungalows there are eight studio apartments and one stunning Honeymoon Spa Bungalow - email here for details.

• Tradewinds: There are six self-contained, very comfortable units at Tradewinds as well as a pool and BBQ area. Situated above Poppy's on the Lagoon (with lagoon access) it's in walking distance to Port Vila town. Recent additions are 2 bedroom units and a four-bedroom townhouse.

• Pacific Lagoon Apartments: Self-contained accommodation for the budget minded on Erakor Lagoon – 11 comfortable units, recently refurbished with 2 bedrooms and separate lounge room with access to watersports facilities. PLA guests are welcome at both Le Lagon and Erakor Island Resorts as long as they purchase a drink/snack.

• Kaiviti Village Motel: Also a good option for the business traveller or the budget conscious a short walk from town – clean, spacious comfortable motel-style rooms (self-contained), swimming pool and the ‘best hamburgers in town’ at the poolside snack bar.

• Formule Holiday Motel: (now called Vanuatu Holiday Hotel) - French owned and managed (English speaking) this is a budget option offering well-appointed rooms (most air-conditioned) close to town (one house up from the Kaiviti and backs on to the Melanesian. Has a nice communal breakfast area and small swimming pool.

• Budget Traveller’s Motel: Another recent property offering quality budget accommodation near Cercle Sportif – Has TV, microwave, toaster, fridge and air-conditioning in most rooms.

• Vila Chaumieres: Boutique bungalow and motel-style accommodation on the outskirts of town. Slightly rustic, but in a lovely lagoon setting with a first class restaurant. No pool or activities as such though. The restaurant is recommended to couples wanting romantic ambience (ask for Table 4).

• Blue Water Island Resort: The term ‘resort’ starts to blur a bit here. 25 minutes out of Vila, the bungalow style accommodation is basic and comfortable with a reasonable amount of living area and a fridge and fronts the lagoon or beach. There is a bar, restaurant, watersports. A bus runs twice daily to town.

• Beachcomber Resort: ‘Resort’ is now drawing a bit of a long bow. It’s a good spot to stop for a meal on your way around the island and while the accommodation is basic, it’s clean and comfy and can be good value (meals expensive though). There’s a bar and restaurant (with a thermal pool) and it’s a good base from which to explore North Efate. The generator may only supply power and lights after 9pm if there are plenty of guests so it could be candles and kerosene lamps after 9.

• Sea Change Lodge: Sea Change Lodge offers something a bit different from studio apartments to a lagoon front chalet with jetty and spa (all self-contained). You hosts are Rick and Wendy (who went to Vanuatu for their own ‘sea change’). Visit the website or email here for bookings.

• Lagoon Beach Resort Apartments: These new apartments are only a few minutes from Vila and represent excellent value. There have two air-conditioned bedrooms upstairs (with King Beds that unzip to make two singles) and a pull-out sofa bed in the living area downstairs. Self-contained with washing machine and dryer there’s also a poolside café that opens for three meals and snacks. Visit the website or email here for bookings.

• Moorings: This property is a recent addition to accommodation options in Port Vila. On the harbour and a short walk to town it offers quality accommodation at a good price and has a pool, restaurant, bar and nightclub nearby - email here if you would like more info.

On Espiritu Santo there’s also a range of accommodation to suit needs and budget including Bokissa Private Island Resort, Aore Island Resort and Deco-Stop for divers and those on a budget. On Tanna Island White Grass Ocean Resort is the most upmarket option and Friendly Bungalows offers a great rustic alternative. See Outer Islands for accommodation a bit more off the beaten track. See also Outer Islands for accommodation a bit more off the beaten track.

ACCOUNTANTS

Because Vanuatu is a tax haven there are more than your usual compliment of accountants per capita. Companies can be set up in 24 hours. (See Investment and Offshore Investment). Drop an email if you’d like the contact numbers for accountants.

ADOPTION

It goes on all the time, but it’s not the same, as we know it. In ni-Vanuatu culture, if you’ve have too many kids it’s not uncommon for a relative or friend to take a few off your hands. They just become another part of the extended family (wan tok or ‘one talk’ in Bislama).

ADVENTURE

There’s plenty in Vanuatu for those looking for soft (and occasionally hard) adventure. The scuba diving is rewarding with wrecks and reefs (including the world’s most famous wreck dive, the President Coolidge on Santo). Game fishing, kayaking, snorkelling, kayaking, parasailing, abseiling and horse riding are also accessible and affordable. For the range of tours and activities available, check out www.GoVanuatu.com

ADVENTURES IN PARADISE

There are a number of tour operators in Port Vila. Adventures in Paradise run a slick, professional operation covering the major ‘to see and dos’ as well as airport transfers. They are in the main street or can be booked from resort tour desks.

AFFOGATO

A delightful Italian desert - take an espresso in a glass and add a scoop of vanilla ice cream, enjoy. However, in Port Vila don't ask for an Affagato - no one will know what you’re talking about. Instead ask for an espresso and one small ice cream on the side. You can spoon on the coffee at your leisure. Cafes include Au Peche Mignon, El Gecko, Jill’s Café, Café Deli and Nambawan. Hopefully it won’t be long until we see The Rossi pop up again.

AIDS

There have been a couple of isolated reports of AIDS. That needn't worry the faithful or chaste, but the occasionally naughty should know that a thin layer of rubber can prevent serious complications. Prophylactics designed to minimize these risks aren't readily available from vending machines but are stocked in the pharmacies.

AIR TRAVEL

Vanuatu is serviced from Australia and New Zealand by Air Vanuatu’s 737 with flights to/from Brisbane, Sydney and Auckland. Visitors from the United States can arrive via Nadi in Fiji. There are flights connecting New Caledonia as well as internal flights between the islands of Vanuatu. The Air Vanuatu 737 has a full service from Qantas each Tuesday in Brisbane. It’s a little less than three hours to Brisbane, a little longer to Sydney and Auckland. Pacific Blue flies direct from Brisbane Saturdays and Mondays.

Air Vanuatu code shares with Qantas (and now accepts frequent flier points!). Conditions usually apply for heavily discounted airfares and purchasing connections before arrival as part of a package should still work out as better value and seats will be guaranteed.

Flight schedules occasionally change without much notice (like when they dropped flights from Melbourne - a silly move for tourism perhaps? – rumour is they could start again 2008). Current schedule is Air Vanuatu Sunday mornings out of Brisbane as well as Friday evening and Tuesday afternoon - returning to Brisbane Friday afternoon and Sunday mornings and Monday afternoon. The Sunday flight and Monday return goes via Santo. Sydney flights are every day bar Tuesday and from Auckland Wednesday and Saturday with Air New Zealand flying Sunday in peak season.

Pacific Blue took to the skies in 2004 and provides two flights a week out of Brisbane (Sydney flights are still on the drawing board). The times are good on these flights - departing around 9:35am or 10:35am arriving and departing Vila mid afternoon. There are good (inexpensive) connections from Sydney and Melbourne with Virgin. Pacific Blue operates the same as Virgin (buy your snacks, headphones etc) and they have digi-players for movies/TV for hire.

AIRPORTS

Bauerfield International Airport sounds a bit more sophisticated than it is because of the word ‘international’ (but by definition, it does have flights in and out of other countries). There’s no McDonalds or carpeted lounge but there is limited duty free, two bars (one in the departure lounge), currency exchange and a café. There’s also an ATM. Port Vila is just ten minutes away. Most visitors are met be air-conditioned tour buses for transfers but taxis are also on hand (around VT1000 - 1500 to town/resorts).

White Grass International Airport on Tanna Island gets ‘international’ in its name because it is capable of landing a large plane but small planes usually service the island, as with Santo and other outer islands. Santo Airport has been upgraded and now has a direct weekly flight from/to Brisbane.

For people departing Vanuatu - if you have any vatu in coins in your pocket, there are charity bins in the departure lounge airside and the money goes to helping ni-Vanuatu children.

AIR CALEDONIE

Air Calédonie has connections between New Caledonia and Vanuatu and has an office in the main street (opposite Goodies and Olympic Take Away).

AIR VANUATU

Air Vanuatu code shares with Qantas and Air New Zealand) has only one plane, a Boeing 737, which services Australia and New Zealand. It is always kept clean and mechanically maintained and the pilots and service cannot be faulted. Beware the drinks trolley as the flight attendants seem to always be on hand to top up your drink. If you want leg room, try to get Row 11 window seat as there is a gap for the emergency exit in Row 10. Likewise, if you are travelling as a couple and don’t want a third person cramping your style, ask for Row 10 as there are only two seats either side of the aisle (the rest of economy class has three seats a side).

You can confirm your flights 72 hours prior to departure on 23848.

Some ni-Vanuatu have sandy, curly hair, Melanesian features and white skin. Most albinos decide not to marry as having a partner who carries a recessive gene can result in offspring with albinism. Lack of skin pigment is not a great thing to have in the tropics.

People with a drinking problem in Vanuatu have a real problem because alcohol is expensive. Local beer in supermarkets costs around VT200 per bottle (AUD$2.50), imported beers around VT250. In resorts you will pay up to VT400 for local and VT500 for imported. Wine (Australian, New Zealand and French) costs upwards of VT1100 per bottle. Restaurants double the price you will find in bottle shops so paying corkage to Bring Your Own is worth it. Expect to pay VT400 by the glass. Colourful resort cocktails cost upwards of VT800. Luckily all have Happy Hours. There are 7 liquor outlets in Port Vila. It’s illegal to purchase alcohol from midday Saturday till Monday morning although bars and restaurants are allowed to serve alcohol. (See Liquor Laws). Speaking of alcohol, if you're looking for an online breathalyser (or even a few good drinking jokes) visit the RUPissed? web site.

ALLIANCE FRANCAISE

Alliance Française has an office in Port Vila for those wanting to brush up on their French. They also have a book and video library and provide lessons for school groups visiting from Australia and New Zealand.

AMBAE ISLAND

Author James Michener (‘Tales of the South Pacific’ - inspiration for the movie South Pacific) was stationed on Santo as a Lieutenant during World War II and he thought Ambae was the most beautiful island in the South Pacific. Interestingly, he never went there, he just watched it from afar - he didn’t want anything to destroy the image he had of the island. It’s a volcanic island with a high rainfall and is often shrouded in cloud. In the 1500m high volcano there are three craters, each containing a freshwater thermal lake and a ready supply of prawns.

AMBRYM ISLAND

Also known as the Black Island, the centre of Ambrym is a 12km ancient ash plain that leads to two active volcanoes (Mt Barum and Mt Benbow), both of which have large lava lakes. The island is a centre of sorcery and black magic (linked to volcanoes) and the home of tam-tams (vertical, slit gongs), which are seen throughout Vanuatu as well as tree fern sculptures. There is no written history among the ni-Vanuatu apart from sand drawings. Ambrym has 180 different sand drawings, each with a mythical or spiritual message. (more info about the volcanoes on Ambryn Island).

ANCHOR INN

This is a fine little bar frequented by locals hanging off the Vanuatu Yacht Club at the airport end of town (across from Evergreen Tours on the water side). Friday night is arguably the liveliest, especially if there is a free wine tasting (which is more like a ‘wine guzzle’).

ANEITYUM

Aneityum (also known as Anatom and ‘Mystery Island’ for cruise ships) is the most southern island in the archipelago. It’s mountainous and ringed by white, sandy beaches and a coral reef for excellent snorkelling/diving. Once the island supported a thriving sandalwood and kauri logging industry and had the largest missionary church in the southern hemisphere, seating 500 people. It’s now in ruins. There are also many species of orchids. There are some photos on Moon guide author David Stanley’s site.

ANGLOPHONES

‘Anglophone’ refers to English speaking people, including ni-Vanuatu, who have been educated in English schools.

ANZAC DAY

Australian and New Zealand visitors in Vanuatu should consider attending the Dawn Service at the war memorial (high on the hill above the harbour). It is alternately hosted by either the Australian or New Zealand High Commissions and is attended by both as well as British, French and Canadian representatives and the Vanuatu Prime Minister and President. For the hardy, rum and coffee is on offer and the service itself is particularly moving, possibly because it’s rare that the ‘A’ and the ‘NZ’ parts of the Army Corps join together in remembrance. The Vanuatu army and band also participate and the last post is haunting as the light swells over the harbour.

They shall not grow old
As we that are left grow old
Age shall not weary them
Nor the years condemn
At the going down of the sun
And in the morning
We will remember them
Lest We Forget.

AORE ISLAND RESORT

Aore Island Resort is on Santo and is a great spot for couples, divers and families. Just 10 minutes across from Luganville, the bungalows are comfortable and the ambience relaxed and welcoming. The restaurant is also excellent. More here.

ART & ARTIFACTS

There are many fine artisans in Vanuatu producing jewellery, weaving, carvings, pottery and paintings. Pigs are a major source of inspiration. Wood carvings are permitted back into Australia and New Zealand but they should be declared so Customs can inspect them. Some places to check out include Vila Handicrafts, Handicraft Blong Vanuatu, Goodies and, for painting, drop into Diana Tam’s studio in Ellouk (on Erakor Lagoon, off Pango Road). Michoutouchkine and partner Pilioko also paint and produce original screen-printed clothes and fabric - go to the pink building in the main street. For excellent wooden pigs, drop into the Nambawan Café and ask for Zilo.

AUTOMATIC TELLER MACHINES

The ANZ Bank has Automatic Teller Machines outside its branches, at the airport and in Au Bon Marche Supermarkets. Westpac has an ATM outside the bank in the main street.

AVOCADO

The old persea Americana thrives in Vanuatu and it’s one of the few fruits rich in fat, unsaturated and cholesterol free. Like mangos, bananas, papaya and kiwi fruit, avocados continue to ripen after they’re picked. They’re at their best when the skin ‘gives’ a little. Once cut, the flesh can brown quickly and this can be slowed with a squeeze of lemon juice.