A lot of tourists like this look (mainly girls). Depending on hair length and thickness it takes about an hour and you can get it done on some days at the larger resorts or each day at the markets (also at Head Hunters salon in the passageway near Au Peche Mignon opposite the markets. It costs vt1000 for a big job but one or two strands may be a better statement. A tip for those who want to show off when returning home - get it done the day before leaving to drag out the bragging experience. (more info..)

There are a number of hair stylists in Port Vila, French and English. Christine Hamilton has a mobile hairdressing and make-up service, which may suit people getting married. Christine also has a hair and beauty salon called ‘Platinum’ at Chantilly’s on the Bay. For more information on this, go to Honeymoon Vanuatu. Prices are similar to Australia and New Zealand.

Here’s the famous ‘To be, or not to be...’ soliloquy from Hamlet in Bislama, the Vanuatu pidgin language. It was translated by McClory Kalsakav and has been performed on stage in England. At first it may seem indecipherable, but by sounding out the words it should make some sense… for example:

• ‘that is the question’ is ‘emia nao tingting’ or ‘I’m now thinking’…
• ‘solwata blong warri’ is ‘saltwater of worry’ or ‘sea of troubles’…
• ‘by opposing, end them’ - ‘stoppem olgetta’ or ‘stop them altogether’…
• ‘The heartache and the thousand natural shocks’ is: ’inside warri mo (and) long fullap seksek’ - seksek being Bislama for natural shock or earthquake (from shake-shake)…
• ‘yumi’ is ‘us’ (you and me)…
• ‘island we never gat’ is, of course, ‘the undiscovered country’ (island we never got)…
• ‘Blong mekem noise mo sweat undanit long wan rabis life’ is: ‘To grunt and sweat under a weary life’ (make noise and sweat under one rubbish life)…
• Oh, and ‘save’ is pronounced ‘savvy’ as in understand…

Good luck!

Bae i olsem or bae i no olsem, emia nao tingting we i stap
Sipos man ia i wantem hed blong hem i so
Long rob mo spear blong bigfala save or blong karrem
Power againsem wan solwata blong warri, mo blong
Lukluk blong stoppem olgetta.
Blong tete mo slip i nomo gat mo long wan slip
Blong tallem long ol i finis.
Long inside warri mo long fullap seksek,
Bodi ia emi masta blong olgetta.
Emia emi marretam save blong wan tem blong tete mo slip
Blong save slip mo lukluk, awae emia nao merrisin
Long taem yu ded slip, wannem lukluk nao save gat.
Taem we yumi seksekem out ol rabbish tingting blong mekem yumi spel
Emia nao respect we i mekem i strong long life
Long hu we i save kassem han mo humbak long ol taem
Ol smol man, ol high man
Long seksek blong lovem
Long late blong law long rabis fasem blong office mo blong sharrem
Sick man ya face blong hemi nogud
Taem man ya hemi save se last wind blong he i kam i mekem wattem pin
nating nomo
Hu nao bae i kessem
Blong mekem noise mo sweat undanit long wan rabis life
Be emia we i fright long samting afta long tete
Long island we never gat, long who we i go i nogat man i kam bak
i mekem hed i fasfas mo i mekem yumi mas kassem ol sick yumi gat no blong fly i go long narafala we yumi no save
Emia tingting blong mekem yumi evriwan i fright olsem wan pikinini
Mo emia man ples i stanup blong finnem
Emi kiaman sic blong tingting we i no strong blong go,
Mo wok wetem strong leaf mo taem save ol se ol swell i tanem,
Mo lusum nem blong fight.

The main town of Port Vila sits along the harbour. There are a number of restaurants along the waterfront and a park/walkway with a children’s playground. It is a deep water harbour and can be very pretty with deep blues and azure/greens. There is a free ferry to Iririki Island that non-staying guests can use (head to the right for the resort and restaurant, left to the beach). The harbour hosts triathlons and it looks clean, but with boats emptying bilges into the bay it may be deceptive. There are a number of excellent dives in parts of the harbour and around Efira island and Pango Point. Harbourside real estate is expensive with some homes worth more than US$1 million. For a spectacular sunset, head up to the Bayview Terrace at Club Vanuatu or Tilly’s restaurant to watch a golden saucer of a sun melt into the sparkling sea. Unless of course it’s raining.

A world-wide expatriate thingy where adults introduce their children to a spirited run followed by an exhibition of beer drinking and swearing. This is a must for people who like to blow bugles, run around following arrows on footpaths, drinking, farting, belching, swearing and giving each other silly nick names. If you are a harrier, or if this appeals, phone Mark Lister on 22 977.

Hat Island is the European name for Eretoka (sometimes spelt Retoka), so named because, well, it’s shaped like a hat. It’s a small island 8km off the west coast of Efate and is a popular dive spot. Retoka has been uninhabited for 700 years but is one of the greatest archaeological sites of the Pacific. Chief Roy Mata’s (c1265) grave containing 47 skeletons was unearthed in 1967. Once tabu, the site can now be visited by certain tours and through arrangements with the customary owners on nearby Lelepa Island. In August 2002, Roy Mata’s remains were put on permanent display at the natural museum. If you go deep sea fishing off Hat, you’ll see evidence of how Vanuatu is actually rising with coral outcrops high above sea level and a number of ‘new’ beaches.

Havannah Harbour is a large sheltered harbour on the west coast of Efate that was a naval base for US warships during WWII. Now popular with cruise boats, there are still reminders of the war presence (local kids now use the water storage dam as a swimming pool). Havannah Harbour was once a thriving main town on Efate however, after several malarial outbreaks and drought, people moved to the current centre of Port Vila.

There are a lot of unfounded misconceptions about health conditions in ‘third world’ countries. The urban water in major centres is safe to drink although some may prefer the taste of bottled water. Bottled or boiled water should be the rule on outer islands however. Because of the humidity, it’s important to keep well hydrated, particularly children. There’s no reason to take anti-malarial medication unless travelling to the outer islands - its side effects can be enough to take the edge off an enjoyable holiday. Most drugs, prescription and non-prescription are available although people with pre-existing conditions would be wise to bring enough medication with them. There are no dangerous animals or insects. To avoid stepping on sea urchins or getting coral cuts reef shoes are recommended. It’s worth packing a small medical kit (for handiness and cost saving) that includes Bandaids, a bandage, Panadol, sunscreen, insect repellent, scissors, tweezers, Imodium, hydrogen peroxide, Stingose and an antiseptic like Betadine. Travel insurance isn’t expensive and is highly recommended.

Heat is a part of the tropics, though it’s not as stifling as you would imagine, even in the summer months. The temperature doesn’t have the vast fluctuations experienced in parts of Australia and New Zealand - around 23C in the cool months of June, July, August and up to 32C in the summer months. It’s still a wise move to carry a bottle of water with you and wear sunblock when going out.

For local handprints and lava lavas (sarongs), hand printed shirts and Mother Hubbard dresses, go to the Hebrida Centre opposite Centrepoint supermarket - also sarongs etc from the women’s markets.

The helicopter is back! Simon and Jeremy have the new helicopter business and the office is harbour front next to the Nambawan Café. From the gangplank there, passengers are taken by boat to the chopper that departs and lands on a pontoon in the harbour. Take a scenic flight, arrive in style at Tamanu on the Beach, be dropped at a private beach with a picnic for a day or romance and relaxation or visit the volcano. Phone 44 106 or visit www.vanuatuhelicopters.com. For pre-purchased Romance Packages go to www.HoneymoonVanuatu.com. Incidentally, as well as 'helikopta' in Bislama, you can also use the more colourful 'mixmasta blong Jesus Krist'. For other options, see Scenic Flights.

Hideaway Island has a range of accommodation options from bunks to bungalows and a day trip is on most visitors’ list of things to do. It’s a 15-minute bus ride or you can take a tour. The ferry is free but there is an entry fee of 500 vatu to the marine park. The snorkelling is first rate and there are two platforms above the main coral bommies. It’s best if you can take your own gear, as the charge for masks, fins and snorkels isn’t cheap. Fish food packets cost 100 vatu each. Best to use sparingly as there are so many fish some people feel claustrophobic among schools of them. There is a bar, snack bar and dive operation on the island as well as the world’s only underwater post office (waterproof postcards available at the souvenir shop).

(See Consulates)

(See car rental)

For centuries the ni-Vanuatu have recorded their history orally - passing stories, myths and legends from one generation to the next. Sometimes myths and actual events blur. For example, the story of Roy Mata, the custom chief for Efate and the Shepherd Islands, date his death around 1265. It wasn’t until 1967 that archaeologists confirmed that his close relatives and clan leaders volunteered to be buried alive with him. Stories were told of how Chief Ti Tongoa Liseiriki survived a volcanic eruption that split the large island of Kuwae into five smaller island in 1475. When he died, family members chose to be buried alive with him. Legend also said that he usually wore four pig’s tusks, but before dying, gave one tusk to another chief. Archeologists last century confirmed this as well.

European explorers visited the islands in the 17th and 18th centuries from various parts of the globe - de Quiros came from Peru and named Santo, Bougainville came from France. The French also discovered Maewo, Ambae and Malo and named them the New Cyclades. In 1774, Cook sailed to Malekula, Erromango, Tanna and Santo. La Perouse and Bligh also passed through. The 19th century saw the indigenous population decimated by atrocities - bloodshed at the hands of sandalwood traders, kidnapping by ‘blackbirders’ to get labour for the cane fields of Queensland and the arrival of missionaries who introduced white man’s diseases.

John Higginson, a naturalised French citizen arrived in the 1880s and acquired large tracts of land. He wanted the French government to annex the country but the British didn’t want that to happen. In 1906, it was decided (without any consultation with the indigenous people) that the New Hebrides (Nouvelles Hebrides) become an Anglo-French Condominium. It was basically chaos, requiring three organisations - the French, English and Condominium - to agree before any project could be undertaken. There are still shades of this today. A book was commissioned to celebrate ten years of independence (1990), which had to be written in three languages. There were even two currencies (French and English) up until Independence.

The early part of the 20th century saw the local people provide cheap labour for white plantation owners in conditions not much better than slavery - long hours, little food and inadequate accommodation. Later, the planters recruited labour from Malaya, China, Vietnam, Fiji and Tonga which explains today’s multicultural mix. During World War Two, an American influence came to the islands and a ni-Vanuatu defence force was formed to assist the Americans in the war effort. The 1970s saw agitation for political and economic independence, which reached fruition in 1980.

Hitchhiking isn’t encouraged and, if it was, it would be frustrating. As just about every second vehicle is a bus or taxi, people with their thumb out would be inundated with cars wanting to give them a lift in exchange for 100 vatu.

All newlyweds want is a memorable and romantic honeymoon, and the tropics make for both - sunsets, warm water and weather, colourful cocktails and a laid back atmosphere. Ian, the author of this site, also produced a honeymoon site. It is not supported by advertising and is there to provide personal advice to provide couples with the best possible romantic break whether they book through the site or not. Basically, we hate seeing travellers directed to properties or attractions that don’t meet their expectations, particularly when it could have been prevented by simply talking to someone with local knowledge. So, for obligation and cost-free advice, drop in to the Honeymoon Vanuatu web site.

Horse riding is popular with expatriate residents and horses can be hired by the hour, half day or day from Club Hippique (on the road to White Sands and Tamanu) and l’Hippocampus (The Sea Horse Ranch on the road to Devil’s Point). Both offer beach and rainforest rides for experienced and inexperienced riders. The Sea Horse offers trick riding lessons as well as regular lessons and Club Hippique has lessons in dressage, jumping and polocrosse. There is a snack bar and drinks are available.

The Port Vila Hospital isn't a place you would visit by choice, but in the case of an emergency, skilled doctors will treat you. There are anaesthetists, paediatricians and general surgeons. Insurance is still highly recommended, especially if a Medivac is necessary. There are limited outbound flights, so if the emergency didn't coincide with one and a plane had come to get you, the meter would tick over to in excess of AUD$40,000. There is a good Medical Centre in Vila (above The Drug Store, opposite Club Vanuatu). There is also an excellent mobile paramedic (ProMedical). The phone number is 25566.

Every expatriate home has a housegirl (hausgel). This is not as ‘colonial’ as it sounds. If an expatriate chose not to have a housegirl, that family would be frowned upon for denying a local employment. Sure, there are some colonial types who enjoy being called ‘Masta’ and see it as a ‘master-servant’ relationship but, on the whole, house girls become an extended part of the expatriate family and vice versa. Expatriates often assist with accommodation, school fees and so on, house girls bring fresh fruit and vegetables and often name their children after people in the expatriate family (or what they found in the medicine cabinet, ‘Glycerine’ is one such example). A tradition, when it’s time for an expatriate family to ‘go finis’, is the house girl presenting the expat woman with a Mother Hubbard dress. Most homes also have a ‘garden boy’ (no matter what his age).

“What humidity?” he asked, wringing out his shirt. Humidity is the reason your sheets are damp, why your papers go limp, why your books get fatter and why their pages curl. It’s why your CD’s, floppy’s and videos go mouldy and why your clothes smell like mushrooms and have a coating of fine green fur. Of course it’s not that bad all year round. The worst time of year is around January and February, February being the hottest time. The good thing about humidity is, it plumps up your skin and keeps it moist.

A very handy mix for coral cuts, scratches, nicks and abrasions. Pour onto the wound to cleanse it. This usually results in a fizz - depending on the amount of blood, think creaming soda shaken. The fizz means there is bacteria and the wound should be cleaned with peroxide each time the dressing is changed. After the peroxide, use some antiseptic powder or Betadine, and then cover the wound. Unlike in Australia and New Zealand, fresh air is not good for wounds. Peroxide is available from the chemists who will tell you how best to treat the wound. Don’t ignore coral cuts - they can get nasty in a short time.