RACECOURSE

The Port Vila Racecourse, on the road to Mele, is only used once a year, for the Kiwani Picnic Race Day, a charity day and a hoot for both expatriates and ni-Vanuatu people. There are many horse enthusiasts in Vanuatu, but not too many versed in the craft of riding against other horses and jockeys so there are a lot of spills. Apart from the races there motor bike races, parachute jumping, ni-Vanuatu stalls selling local food, corporate boxes with chicken and champagne, ‘fashions-in-the-field’, great raffle prizes and tote betting where the person taking your money says, “thank you and good luck”. I’ve never heard a bookmaker anywhere else wish the punter luck! Don't miss this if you are visiting Vila at the time (usually mid-July).

RADIO

Comin’ to your lounge rooms live across the air waves. Radio Vanuatu patches into short and medium wave radio from 6:00am in the morning and then comes on live from their studio from 4:30pm. You can listen to radio Vanuatu by tuning into 98 on the FM dial. BBC World Service is another option and, at night, you can pick up Australian stations on most radios. (More info...)

RAINBOW GARDENS

Rainbow Gardens grows some wonderful local produce like coriander, basil, snow peas etc - available at Centrepoint and Au Bon Marche supermarkets.

RAINBOWS END

Rainbow’s End was long a favourite wedding location belonging to Connie Wells. Connie has moved to a seafront location on Devil’s Point Road and renamed her garden Mystique Si. Connie is an expert traditional Vanuatu wedding organiser and photographer. She has now transformed her new ‘backyard’ into a wonderful wedding venue with a garden full of sculpture and art with a waterfront setting for the vows, Melanesian dancing and photography. For more on Connie and her weddings, click here.

REAL ESTATE

Real estate returns a good tax-free rental income, but up until recently there was little in the way of capital gains (there has been a property boom in the last couple of years). If relocating to Vanuatu was purely a lifestyle decision or you had ‘lazy’ money to invest, it could be well worth looking into but one gets the feeling that the present boom may burst. An investment of over 5 million vatu in Vanuatu gives automatic investment residency status. For advice on real estate, see Douglas Patterson at Island Property (Ph 24630), Sylvie Lowen at Alliance Realty (Ph 26600), Loic Bernier at Caillard Kaddour (22629) or Glen at First National.

REEF SHOES

A must for walking on the reefs and can be bought or hired - best bring your own or pick up a cheap and nasty pair of canvas sneakers from the Chinese stores.

RELIGION

Predominantly Christian, but whatever you’re after Port Vila has it. The largest church is Pentecost followed closely by the Catholic. Seven day Adventists have a large following, as do the Jehovah’s Witnesses. There are also many and varied evangelists who come and go. In July 2002 the breakdown was estimated at Presbyterian (36.7%), Anglican (15%), Roman Catholic (15%), indigenous beliefs (7.6%), Seventh-Day Adventist (6.2%), and Church of Christ (3.8%). The balance was classified as 'Other' but included a goodly number of the followers of Jon Frum Cargo Cult and Muslims. Visitors are welcome to attend Sunday services at the local churches. Many of the shops and markets close on Sundays. Some Chinese-owned shops and supermarkets may be open and, at the resorts, it's business as usual.

RESIDENCY

As mentioned under Investment, investors with 5,000,000 vatu can apply for residency. If you are a specialist in a certain area (say, a teacher, doctor, resort manager) you may be given residency, as long as you are not taking a job that could be filled by a local. Visitors are given an automatic three-month visa on arrival.

RESORTS

The resorts in Vanuatu have something to offer all travellers although none of them can boast a true five-star rating. Very briefly… for families, Le Lagon, Le Meridien, Poppy’s on the Lagoon, Paradise Cove, Fatumaru Lodge, Snorkeller’s Cove at Iririki … for couples, Eratap Beach Resort, Iririki Island Resort, Erakor Island Resort, Chantilly’s, Mangoes, Tamanu on the Beach, Vila Chaumières, Breaka’s Beach Resort and Sunset Bungalows … for divers - Hideaway Island Resort, Tranquility Island or Nautilus... for business travellers, Le Meridien, The Melanesian, Chantilly’s … for budget travellers, Pacific Lagoon Apartments, Kaiviti Village Motel, Tradewinds, Vanuatu Holiday Hotel, Coconut Palms Resort, Moorings and Budget Travellers Motel. (see Accommodation)

RESTAURANTS

Generally the restaurants are first class thanks to excellent beef and fish and some excellent chefs. Here’s a thumbnail guide to some of them (see also Eating Out and individual listings):

• Café du Village: On the harbour looking across to Iririki Island, a great setting and okay French food. Also a nice spot just for a drink or coffee.
• The Waterfront Bar & Grill: The name pretty much says it all. It’s a bar with a restaurant serving good snacks and huge t-bones. If you go game fishing from here, the catch will be cooked for you. Occasionally owner Don (an amateur magician) flies in other magicians and entertainers. Live music some nights. You may see resident cat, ‘Boots’, ring the bell for fish. Well worth a visit.
• Tropik Bistro: Up the hill towards the Melanesian, fine French food and popular with many locals.
• Shooters Bar (formerly Chardy's Harbourside Bar & Bistro): No view but good food at a good price.
• L’Houstalet: Again, no view but an institution. Host Clement Martinez hasn’t changed the menu for 30 years and for good reason - it works. Traditional French fare, cooked well (great snails) in a relaxed setting. This is also the best place to be adventurous and try fruit bat (flying fox). Good spot for a beer and a game of pool, too. The constitution (following independence in 1980) was signed here, for some reason, at 4:00 in the morning.
• Tilly’s: A lovely restaurant and while it is attached to Chantillys on the Bay resort, it doesn’t ‘feel’ like a resort restaurant. Menu changes regularly and as well as a la carte there is a tapas menu. Go before dark for a good chance of a spectacular sunset.
• Vila Chaumieres: French food in a simply delightful setting at night. Diners sit out over the lagoon, which is lit spectacularly with small fish skipping across the still water. A romantic location for honeymooners and couples. Ask for Table 4.
• Erakor Island: Roxy's on the Lagoon is a casual and relaxed dining experience with good food and lovely lagoon setting. They have occasional theme night (pasta, curry etc) and it’s a fine spot for a long lunch (kids can swim on the safe beach while adults eat/drink).
• Micheners: Part of Iririki Resort, it’s upmarket with great harbour views. Locals look on it as a place to perhaps celebrate an anniversary. It doesn’t open for lunch.
• El Gecko: Serves excellent food at good prices (in the courtyard near Goodies, behind the Olympic Takeaway). It opens for breakfast and lunch Monday to Saturday. Currently the flavour of the month with French foodies.
• Harbourview: Very good Chinese food with, as the name says, a view over the harbour.
• Bamboo Royal: Now located near The Sound Centre, Wai Kim continues serving well-priced Chinese with a smile and an Aussie accent.
• La Pizzeria: Italian food and excellent pizzas opposite Au Bon Marche and the Red Cross - on busy nights you may have to wait a while.
• Hideaway Island: Rustic snack and meals at the waterside bar and restaurant for day-tripping snorkellers and guests. The curries are terrific!
• Jill’s Café: Near the ANZ bank, Jill serves up fine American breakfasts and snacks.
• Au Péché Mignon: A nice spot for a coffee, sweet indulgence or great crepes on Wednesday mornings, cooked on the terrace (near Prouds opposite the markets).
• Mangoes: While Mangoes is an adult resort, children are welcome in the restaurant. Along with the recent resort refurbishment the restaurant has a relaxed ambience and the decorative flair reflects what is happening in the kitchen. The food is very good!
• Le Meridien: La Verandah is the resort’s signature restaurant. Thursday night is Melanesian Feast night and non-staying guests are welcome.
• La Terrasse (recently re-named ‘Refresh’ but the old signs are still there): One of the oldest and the first cafes to offer street dining in Vila (opposite French embassy in the main street) serves meals and snacks and is frequented by French locals.
• Tamanu On The Beach: About 20 minutes out of town, this is an excellent beachfront lunch spot. It is intimate, relaxed and offers excellent food. For evening dining consider staying over in one of the five bungalows.
• Benjor (The Officer’s Club Restaurant): Looking across the water to Hideaway Island the setting is where the Americans had their Officer’s Club in World War Two (with a couple of plunge pools in the adjacent creek courtesy of some targeted grenades). Benjor is also about 20 minutes from town in the other direction (on Devil’s Point Road). Good for kids to swim or play petanque while adults dine.
• Paradise Cove: Italian fare with flair. There’s a pool next to the restaurant for kiddies and diners can also use the harbour beach.
• Breaka’s: No kiddies at Breaka’s Beach Resort, but take a towel for a swim pre or post dining in the ‘infinity pool. Restaurant is good with a new Australian chef and there’s a lobster tank.
• Seaview: Next to Au Bon Marche downtown (near the markets) - good value dining in upstairs and take away downstairs.
• Tsang: A favourite with locals for value Chinese meals - it is in a ‘house’ down from the Le Meridien roundabout and up from La Parisienne bakery.
• Chill Restaurant & Bar: Above Seaview near the markets this is a stylish little establishment with harbour views and a great value lunch special.
• Moos Bar & Grill: Part of Moorings Hotel this spot is fast gaining a great reputation for breakfast, lunch and dinner. For those who want to kick on, Rumours Nightclub is also there.
• Kan Pai: Excellent Japanese cuisine on Wharf Road – a big following with the locals.
• Chez Willies: Re-opening late 2007 with Vila’s favourite maire ‘d, Lesley, back doing what he does best. Classy black and white décor and located just above Le Legon Resort
• Café Deli: A nice little air-conditioned in the middle of town for a snack, a gelato or a coffee and chat. Look for themed nights on Thursday that are very good value.
• Eratap Beach Resort: Opening late 2007 with Fiona (founding chef at Tilly’s) back working wonders in the kitchen – will update again soon.

RETOKO ISLAND (HAT ISLAND)

Hat Island is a delightful spot for a day trip (diving/snorkelling/Beach BBQ) and Sailaway Cruises can take you there. Historically it is significant - see Roy Mata below.

ROSSI RESTAURANT

The Rossi was an institution in Vila and sadly closed in December 2005. At the time of this update (October 2007) the word was that not one, but two Rossi restaurants will be reappearing at this fabulous harbour location.

ROTARY

The Rotary Club Of Port Vila is one of the larger local charitable organisations. Rotary has clubs around the world, which are run by local businesses women and men. Their money comes from fund raising and getting matching grants from sister clubs worldwide. Most recent works have been the refurbishment of Vila hospital, kits for kids providing schoolbooks and educational material and Safe Water Save Lives. Their long-term project in Vanuatu is Rotary Against Malaria.

ROY MATA

Roy Mata is considered the greatest chief who brought peace between the warring tribes of Efate in the 13th century. His remains were discovered by French archaeologist, Jose Garranger, in 1967, along with his wives who would have opted to be buried with him, alive. What’s amazing about the archaeological find is that it came about purely through oral history. The stories of Roy Mata were so accurate, the digs were easy to locate and revealed exactly what the stories had told. The grave was discovered on Eratoka or Hat Island (most international flights to and from Vanuatu fly over the island). The remains are now on permanent display in the National Museum and Cultural Centre.

RUNNING

The Vanuatu Round The Island Relay is held towards the end of July each year. It's a challenging 10-person relay race around the main island of Efate and part of the local Independence Day Celebrations. The 10 sections of the race are based on landmarks and terrain, shorter steep sections (the shortest is a hilly 11.6km) and longer flat sections of up to 16km. Each year there are about 30 teams entered, mostly made up of local runners, but for the last few years approximately six international teams have entered. The day is a cause for a festival atmosphere around the whole island.